TCS DIAGNOSTIC + TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

Click on a header below to read info on Troubleshooting that camera. We do not recommend home repairs unless you are a skilled mechanic/engineer with such experience.

START :: ARRI 16 S  ::   ARRI 16 BL  ::   BOLEX

      >  The Arri S does not always stop with the shutter in the viewing position; you may have inch the shutter forward manually - by turning the inching knob on the motor - until the shutter is back in the viewing position.

      >  >check that lens cap is removed | iris is open |eyepiece is “open”

Q:  Why doesn’t the camera run?

      >  Check if the buckle trip is set :: to reset the buckle trip, unclip the film guide arm and push it back in operating position

      >  Also: check cable, check battery, check contact pin on the camera

Q:  Can I use an Arri S door off a different camera on my camera, “It fits”?

      >  No; each door is specifically matched to its body and any switching could result in bad focusing

Q:  My tachometer does not show me the f/p/s speed but I know the motor is running.

      >  The tachometer will not register a speed when running the motor in reverse.  If you have a variable speed motor or TCS crystal motor, you could be running the motor in reverse.  Switch the motor to forward and check if the tachometer is registering speed again.  If this still doesn’t work, your tachometer (gear/needle…) is probably damaged.  Though this probably won’t otherwise affect your filming, you could get this fixed as this is a way to verify speed.

ARRI 16BL

Q:  When I look through the camera I don’t see anything!

      >  The Arri 16BL does not always stop in the viewing position so it may be necessary to use the inching knob (top of camera) to move the shutter to the viewing position.  DON’T:  Use the inching knob while the camera motor is running!

      >  Also: remove lens cap; open iris; make sure the eyepiece is “open”

BOLEX CAMERAS

Q:  Why don’t I see anything when I look though the camera?

      >  There is a light trap lever on the side of the viewfinder, when this is up no backlight can enter the camera and you can’t see anything. Move this lever and see if it has corrected the problem.  Otherwise, have the viewing system checked.

Q:  The camera door does not fit properly.

      >  When the pressure plate is not engaged properly it prevents the door from closing smoothly

      >  Your door may be bent

Q:  Is it possible to over crank a Bolex?

     >  It is not likely a Bolex will get over cranked but a broken spring motor will give the impression that you have over cranked it.  If winding a Bolex very quickly, you should count 20 revolutions and then slow down for the last 2.  This prevents a jarring of the end stop. It take would take a great amount of force to over crank a Bolex. 

Q:  How do I know if the spring motor is good in my camera?

      >  Fully wind the camera the 22 revolutions.  Run the camera while holding the take-up spindle to simulate film drag.   If the camera slows significantly (some cameras will almost stop towards the end of the wind), the spring motor will most likely need to be replaced.  

Q:  What’s the difference between the RX4 and the RX5?

      >  The RX5 is the newer model and has a magazine port on top of the camera that takes 400’ magazines.

Q:  What does the M and P stand for near the run lever on the Bolex?

      >  The letters stand for the French words ‘marchez’ and ‘possez’, which means run and pose (single frame) respectively.

Q:  What is the shutter angle of my Bolex?

      > Reflex cameras (except EL & EBM)      = 133°

      > EL & EBM cameras                              = 170°

      > Non reflex cameras w/ s/n 100401+  = 144°

      > Non reflex cameras pre: s/n 100401   = 192°

Q:  What is the exposure time for my reflex Bolex SBM?

      >  In order to calculate your exposure time you must know:

1.  shutter angle of the camera (e.g an SBM = 133°)

2.  your shooting speed or frame rate (e.g 24 fps)

3.  compensation for light lost to the viewfinder.

The following formula gives you the “real” i.e. uncompensated exposure time:

Exposure Time = (fps x 360)/(Shutter Angle°)

Conversely, if you have the exposure time you can determine your shutter angle:

Shutter Angle = (fps x 360) / (Exposure Time)

Here are compensated exposure times for a Bolex RX 4, RX 5, and SBM model cameras

T-stops can be determine by setting your light meter to  the compensated exposure time.

e.g.  You are shooting at 24fps, with the shutter open (133°), use an exposure time of 1/80.

Q:  Why do I have vertical streaking in the highlights of my exposed rolls?

      >  Make sure you close the pressure plate properly after loading your film.

Q:  Why isn’t my footage steady?

      >  This could be a registration problem.  Have the camera checked at a qualified service center.

BASICS

When first looking through a camera:

Remove the lens :: Focus the eyepiece/diopter on the ground glass/viewfinder markings. They should be sharp 

Battery charging while running a camera at the same time:

Don't do it!.  You should either be charging the battery or running the camera off the battery.  Never do both at the same time because it will permanently damage your battery (and may ruin your shoot).  Instead find an alternative power source or wait until the battery is fully charged. 

Crystal speed checking:

The first way to verify your Arri S or Arri BL crystal motor is not running is to check the tachometer after the warning light is off.  The tachometer speed should be exactly what you preset the crystal motor for – the tachometer should NEVER wobble back and forth.  Another way is buy a crystal speed checker (this is a separate device).

Buying film:

Buy all of the same film stock, from the same place and at the same time.  This eliminates guesswork and needless finger pointing should you run into a problem with some of work prints.

Key to Troubleshooting:

Once you realize something is wrong, your next step is to take note of the circumstances under which your problem occurs.  Be able to answer:

What was I trying to do?

How was my equipment set up at the time?  And, What steps did I take to setup up the equipment?

What did I try to do to solve it?  And, What were the results?

If it has worked before, what was different about that setup and the setup this time, when it didn’t work?  

Once you have this information, you will be able to narrow down the source of your problem.  (You can start to eliminate potential problem sources:  -->if you try different cables and that doesn't solve the problem, its probably not the cables)  From there, you may be able to solve or at least identify the problem, which will reduce your service downtime.  

LIGHTING

HMI daylight

5400 degrees Kelvin and 8000 degrees Kelvin

Expensive bulbs

Heavier (because of flicker free ballast)

More powerful 200 Watts HMI = 1000 Watts Tungsten

Tungsten Light

3200 degree Kelvin

Range 1 –20,00 Watts

Fluorescent Light

3200 degree Kelvin and 5400 degree Kelvin

Less heat per watt

Flexible lighting (easy to use and can be placed anywhere)

Can be dimmed 20% without loosing temperature

Long bulb life (up to 20,000 hrs)

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